01.03.2005, 00:00
Sjekka opp en 350 603 93 modell trude det va 350
300 kan gjerast slik dete e støle frå benzworld
Back-yard procedure to time the injection pump on a 603......US..86-87 126....87 124 OM603 diesel..UK..84-94 OM603 A-B
First off, you can improvise with a home made tool which I will descibe.
1. If you do not have a service manual, or CD, start by removing the radiator.
2. Remove the fan, and fan clutch.
3. Remove the surpintine belt and belt tensioning mechanicisom.
4. Remove the 10mm bolts that house the vacuum pump.
5. There are three 13mm bolts on the same face as the bolts you removed to get the vacuum pump off. Offset, these bolts go through the same aluminum structure the vacuum pump is fastened to. Loosen them only if you are only going to advance, or retard, injection timing. Plus or minus 4.5 degrees,. (your maximum adjustment) If you already know that you are way off on timing, or you are completely replacing the injection pump, you need to completely reestablish timing.
Ether way, do this: With the injection pump in place, loosly bolted, and MB timing tool in hand, which almost nobody has except your local MB dealer for these engines to date, you need to find the 17mm bolt on the side of the injection body, there is only one, and remove it.
Find a mirror because you cant see inside the hole without one, turn the engine clock-wise and look at the mirror reflecting what you see turning within the injection pump. You will see the govenor body within revolving. You are looking for a part of that revolving body that resembles the tip of a slotted screwdriver bit, as it comes around. And there is nothing else revoving in there that looks as similar, stop turning the engine when you see it appear. Now look at the pulley belt wheel, (harmonic balancer) for the timing numbers. This is on the compression stroke, valves closed on #1 piston. You can see this
easly by removing the oil fill cap on top the valve cover and looking in to see the two cam lobes not compressing the intake or exhaust valves. (NOTE)There are two complete revolutions on the crank before fire. You want the compression stroke. Set the crank at or about 15 degrees after top dead center. Look now at your mirror. If you do not see in that hole what I descibed above, (a slotted screw driver running blade wise from front of the car tom aft, you are out of correct timing and the engine will eather not run or run extremey poorly.
You can adjust timing only by approximately 2.5 degrees before TDC, or 2.5 degrees after TDC with the provided adjustment set bolt located between the pump body and pump housing.
If the timing is way off, you need to pull the pump out and reset it.
1. Turn the engine twice before stopping at 15 degrees after top dead center. (17 degrees on 1989 and later)
2. With vacuum pump removed, you will see a center bolt into the front of the injection pump (splined injection pump crank shaft). It is a 17mm bolt that turns counter clockwise (left hand thread) Turn the bolt clockwise to remove. Once out, and with the three retaining bolts with funny large nuts holding removed, you can wigle the pump out. (Note)You will have to remove a single small bolt fastening cruise control unit immediately behind the injection pump in order to complete pump removal. (it's in the way)
Lay the pump on a bench on it's side revealing the hole that you removed the 17mm bolt. Carefully turn the pump shaft clockwise until you see what looks like the slotted screwdriver tip showing throught the hole. Find a 3/8" wooden dowel. Cut it to about 2". Cut with a saw, or band saw, a slot in one end, about 1/8" in, insert the slotted dowel into the hole in the side of the pump body to recieve the screwdriver like slot in the govenor body that you saw in the hole.
Secure the dowel (I use bailing wire) and reinstall the pump. The whole idea of the slotted dowel is to freeze the injection pump from turning while reinstalling. MB uses a speacial tool that insures 100% injection timing. You are simply mimicking the same.
Once you have the pump fully fastened, turn the engine by hand again, and with your mirror, see where
the slot is..you should be at or about 17,16,15 degrees after top dead center. If you did it right, you will be in this range. Remember, you can adjust 2.5 degrees eather way. This will get you to the guy with the timing tool for absolute specs. However, 2.5 degrees out eather way is not detromental and will not harm your engine within. You might find greater lower end torque at the lower end of this adjustment, but not at hi-way torque.
Yours truly GROMMIT
Skal sjekke 300 i morga
Test the limits of Japanese Technology and move on
300 kan gjerast slik dete e støle frå benzworld
Back-yard procedure to time the injection pump on a 603......US..86-87 126....87 124 OM603 diesel..UK..84-94 OM603 A-B
First off, you can improvise with a home made tool which I will descibe.
1. If you do not have a service manual, or CD, start by removing the radiator.
2. Remove the fan, and fan clutch.
3. Remove the surpintine belt and belt tensioning mechanicisom.
4. Remove the 10mm bolts that house the vacuum pump.
5. There are three 13mm bolts on the same face as the bolts you removed to get the vacuum pump off. Offset, these bolts go through the same aluminum structure the vacuum pump is fastened to. Loosen them only if you are only going to advance, or retard, injection timing. Plus or minus 4.5 degrees,. (your maximum adjustment) If you already know that you are way off on timing, or you are completely replacing the injection pump, you need to completely reestablish timing.
Ether way, do this: With the injection pump in place, loosly bolted, and MB timing tool in hand, which almost nobody has except your local MB dealer for these engines to date, you need to find the 17mm bolt on the side of the injection body, there is only one, and remove it.
Find a mirror because you cant see inside the hole without one, turn the engine clock-wise and look at the mirror reflecting what you see turning within the injection pump. You will see the govenor body within revolving. You are looking for a part of that revolving body that resembles the tip of a slotted screwdriver bit, as it comes around. And there is nothing else revoving in there that looks as similar, stop turning the engine when you see it appear. Now look at the pulley belt wheel, (harmonic balancer) for the timing numbers. This is on the compression stroke, valves closed on #1 piston. You can see this
easly by removing the oil fill cap on top the valve cover and looking in to see the two cam lobes not compressing the intake or exhaust valves. (NOTE)There are two complete revolutions on the crank before fire. You want the compression stroke. Set the crank at or about 15 degrees after top dead center. Look now at your mirror. If you do not see in that hole what I descibed above, (a slotted screw driver running blade wise from front of the car tom aft, you are out of correct timing and the engine will eather not run or run extremey poorly.
You can adjust timing only by approximately 2.5 degrees before TDC, or 2.5 degrees after TDC with the provided adjustment set bolt located between the pump body and pump housing.
If the timing is way off, you need to pull the pump out and reset it.
1. Turn the engine twice before stopping at 15 degrees after top dead center. (17 degrees on 1989 and later)
2. With vacuum pump removed, you will see a center bolt into the front of the injection pump (splined injection pump crank shaft). It is a 17mm bolt that turns counter clockwise (left hand thread) Turn the bolt clockwise to remove. Once out, and with the three retaining bolts with funny large nuts holding removed, you can wigle the pump out. (Note)You will have to remove a single small bolt fastening cruise control unit immediately behind the injection pump in order to complete pump removal. (it's in the way)
Lay the pump on a bench on it's side revealing the hole that you removed the 17mm bolt. Carefully turn the pump shaft clockwise until you see what looks like the slotted screwdriver tip showing throught the hole. Find a 3/8" wooden dowel. Cut it to about 2". Cut with a saw, or band saw, a slot in one end, about 1/8" in, insert the slotted dowel into the hole in the side of the pump body to recieve the screwdriver like slot in the govenor body that you saw in the hole.
Secure the dowel (I use bailing wire) and reinstall the pump. The whole idea of the slotted dowel is to freeze the injection pump from turning while reinstalling. MB uses a speacial tool that insures 100% injection timing. You are simply mimicking the same.
Once you have the pump fully fastened, turn the engine by hand again, and with your mirror, see where
the slot is..you should be at or about 17,16,15 degrees after top dead center. If you did it right, you will be in this range. Remember, you can adjust 2.5 degrees eather way. This will get you to the guy with the timing tool for absolute specs. However, 2.5 degrees out eather way is not detromental and will not harm your engine within. You might find greater lower end torque at the lower end of this adjustment, but not at hi-way torque.
Yours truly GROMMIT
Skal sjekke 300 i morga
Test the limits of Japanese Technology and move on