28.09.2014, 07:46
http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/main...oid-14144/
Utklipp fra tråd:
"ok, the job is complete & car running.
So, I cut off the top (4 hours with a dremmel, about 15 cutting discs).
The only part I removed from the car was the <a class="" href="http://www.shopping.com/air-duct/products?CLT=SCH&linkin_id=8058742&subTrackingID=%5BUSERID%5D" title="Link added by VigLink">air duct</a>![[Bilde: smile.gif.pagespeed.ce.xM_f3u022S.gif]](http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif.pagespeed.ce.xM_f3u022S.gif)
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The outer armour is about 1/4" thick.
This exposes the top of the immobiliser module. Cracked off the plastic outer coating, to reveal a soft metal casing. This is not as bad as it looks at first. I cut a slot towards the front of this, and the rear is unsupported, so you can 'peel back' the metal by 1/2" to reveal the potted circuit. The circuit has a 1/4" of hard potting compound, which breaks away easily, and the actual board is potted in a compound resembling gelatine. This can be picked away quite easily.
Revealing the board exposes a connection at the extreme top front corner, and applying 12V to this gave a satisfying click.
I then identified the switched 12v (my unit has 4 wires into it: +12v switched, gnd, <a class="" href="http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=oil%2Bpressure%2Bsensor" title="Link added by VigLink">oil pressure sensor</a> wire, signal). the Signal wire shows 12v all the time, even when ignition is off (white in the loom). the switched 12v was Red in the loom, and Black/Purple in the wires to the pump. I cut this black/purple near the pump, and soldered it direct to the back of the circuit board, and hey presto, the car now starts (and also stops - a bonus!!).
Additional info:
before finally openning the electronics, I checked the circuits with a 'scope. The key sensor seemed to detect the key (a 5v signal with data emitted every time the ignition was turned on). This resulted in 3 equal low going pulses on the signal line at the pump, so at this point I dismissed simple bad connections - probably bad ECU (wrong code to pump). On examination of the circuit revealed by the cutting, the connection I soldered to was connected to a surface mount transistor. This transistor had no volts on it on any pin - I had expected it to be switching +12 to the connection, so it looks like the +12 was not getting through the circuit - maybe a dry joint on the +12v switched input to the circuit."
Utklipp fra tråd:
"ok, the job is complete & car running.
So, I cut off the top (4 hours with a dremmel, about 15 cutting discs).
The only part I removed from the car was the <a class="" href="http://www.shopping.com/air-duct/products?CLT=SCH&linkin_id=8058742&subTrackingID=%5BUSERID%5D" title="Link added by VigLink">air duct</a>
.The outer armour is about 1/4" thick.
This exposes the top of the immobiliser module. Cracked off the plastic outer coating, to reveal a soft metal casing. This is not as bad as it looks at first. I cut a slot towards the front of this, and the rear is unsupported, so you can 'peel back' the metal by 1/2" to reveal the potted circuit. The circuit has a 1/4" of hard potting compound, which breaks away easily, and the actual board is potted in a compound resembling gelatine. This can be picked away quite easily.
Revealing the board exposes a connection at the extreme top front corner, and applying 12V to this gave a satisfying click.
I then identified the switched 12v (my unit has 4 wires into it: +12v switched, gnd, <a class="" href="http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=oil%2Bpressure%2Bsensor" title="Link added by VigLink">oil pressure sensor</a> wire, signal). the Signal wire shows 12v all the time, even when ignition is off (white in the loom). the switched 12v was Red in the loom, and Black/Purple in the wires to the pump. I cut this black/purple near the pump, and soldered it direct to the back of the circuit board, and hey presto, the car now starts (and also stops - a bonus!!).
Additional info:
before finally openning the electronics, I checked the circuits with a 'scope. The key sensor seemed to detect the key (a 5v signal with data emitted every time the ignition was turned on). This resulted in 3 equal low going pulses on the signal line at the pump, so at this point I dismissed simple bad connections - probably bad ECU (wrong code to pump). On examination of the circuit revealed by the cutting, the connection I soldered to was connected to a surface mount transistor. This transistor had no volts on it on any pin - I had expected it to be switching +12 to the connection, so it looks like the +12 was not getting through the circuit - maybe a dry joint on the +12v switched input to the circuit."