23.05.2005, 23:00
Vel, det var dette her som var i mine tanker da :
The most asked question I get asked about the conversions is "Was is hard to do?" Well, depends what you call hard. If you are pretty good with a socket and ratchet, it should be no prob. I might add, if you do have access to any pneumatic tools...that would greatly speed up the process with the stubborn nuts and bolts. OK...the conversion in a nut shell. To start, its all 100% bolt up. Except for the hole you have to cut in the floor for the shifter. All you do is pull tires off, then the shocks, the springs with a long extension and a (I think) 1 1/4 socket. Then you take off the pivot bolt on one side and undo the radius arm nut (1 1/4 socket) and take the one side off. Then do the same to the other. The new axle is a little harder to manhandle because of the shear weight. The dang thing is heavy! You will need 2 jacks and some good friends! I really can't remember the way I put it back in so you will have to see what works good for you. I would get the radius arms in first and get the nut started. Don't tighten it till you get the pivot bolts in....gives you a little more movement. (On a side note I would suggest getting eccentric radius arm bushings...makes aligning the thing better....one major draw back to the TTB...you can pick em up at any NAPA or other reputable parts store) But once you get it in you can drive on it till you get your transfer case worked out. Steering will bolt right up and it should give you about a 1 to 2 inch lift on the front.
On to the rear.....I am going to make a suggestion to you that I didn't do that will save you lots of headaches. You will need to get the factory blocks that go between the axle and the springs to level the back end to the front. But what I didn't do is swap out the springs and spring brackets......bad move...if you ever want to get a suspension lift it makes it complicated. (The 4x4 springs are a little wider than the 2x4 springs in the rear. So that is why you will have to knock off the rivets with a torch or an air hamer....or even grind em if you are brave enough, and put the new ones on with grade 8 bolts....should just bolt right up.)
The transfer case...the hardest part of the conversion. OK...well what I did is that I liked my c-6 that I had and I wanted to still use it. So I pulled the tranny and talked to a local tranny shop about it and he said that he could swap out the output shaft to a shorter one and also put the adapter (transfer case end cone that can be picked up at the dealer.) that the T-case bolts up to on the tranny. OR you can find a tranny/T-case combo too. BUT I would suggest that the shop do it, unless that you have experience rebuilding, because you have to totally disassemble the tranny to swap the output shaft and install the T-case adapter. Have em look at it to make sure that your tranny is in good working order too while you have it out and apart. (IF you don't already..and if you even have a C-6...i would strongly suggest the B&M Street and strip shift kit....really lights it up and its really easy to install)
As for the hole in the floor....you will need to have another 4x4 near by to measure...that is what i did.....go small and if you have to you can widen the hole bigger....measure twice and cut once!!!!!!! You will need to take the seat out and drill 4 holes to start the jig saw. Its really not as hard as it sounds.
The linkage is pretty much straight forward. What else...... what I did and further added that stock look, is that I got the 4x4 light to work in my dash! Ford put the 4x4 dash light filter in there even in the 2x4's, soo all you have to do is get the wire and light socket out of a truck and pull the dash and connect it to a positive and then hook it up to the T-cases terminal. All the switch does it that is grounds out the terminal when you are in 4WD. Its real simple and people will love it!!! Also lets you know exactly how many axles you are using! Makes you look good.
Hum...well, all I guess that is left is to make sure that the t-case and the axle are in good shape. You have 3 main bearings in the spindle of the Dana 44. The outer, the inner wheel bearings and then there is another on the shaft its self by the u-joint.....that is the one that got me in trouble. I blew that one and it started blowing my hubs out. It centers the shaft in the hub and without that working right, it wobbles and goes to making spaghetti out of an $80 pair of Warren premiums! BUT I have to complement Warren in backing up their product because I have a bran spanking new pair they sent me to replace the ones that broke.....Now that is customer service! Also make sure you change the gear oil and other basic things like ball joints, and R & P's. ALSO....almost forgot a biggie! Make sure your axle ratios are the same! If you have, lets say 3.08 (which I have and may make a suggestion.....i would believe with the conversion you will be doing, a nice new set of (at least) 4.10's would be lots better!) gears in the rear.....the front needs to be the same. Or you will really test the strength of your drivetrain.
I might have left out some stuff but you should get the general picture. If you do decide to do the conversion, you will be pleasantly surprised on the performance you will gain. Get a good set of mud tires and you are on your way to driving across those tricky ponds that have been laughing at you!
Sikkert noe som vil si, selg den du har, kjøp deg en med ferdig 4x4.
Men uansett hva Simen sier, og selv om F-150 er USA's mest solgte bil, er dette den eneste av sitt slag i norge.
PÅ verdensbasis sikkert ikke så sjelden, men etter det opplysningskontoret for kjøretøy forteller meg, DEN ENESTE I NORGE
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www.ford-project.com
Tom Thorvaldsen
Stolt eier av : 1986 mod. Ford F-150 XLT Lariat
The most asked question I get asked about the conversions is "Was is hard to do?" Well, depends what you call hard. If you are pretty good with a socket and ratchet, it should be no prob. I might add, if you do have access to any pneumatic tools...that would greatly speed up the process with the stubborn nuts and bolts. OK...the conversion in a nut shell. To start, its all 100% bolt up. Except for the hole you have to cut in the floor for the shifter. All you do is pull tires off, then the shocks, the springs with a long extension and a (I think) 1 1/4 socket. Then you take off the pivot bolt on one side and undo the radius arm nut (1 1/4 socket) and take the one side off. Then do the same to the other. The new axle is a little harder to manhandle because of the shear weight. The dang thing is heavy! You will need 2 jacks and some good friends! I really can't remember the way I put it back in so you will have to see what works good for you. I would get the radius arms in first and get the nut started. Don't tighten it till you get the pivot bolts in....gives you a little more movement. (On a side note I would suggest getting eccentric radius arm bushings...makes aligning the thing better....one major draw back to the TTB...you can pick em up at any NAPA or other reputable parts store) But once you get it in you can drive on it till you get your transfer case worked out. Steering will bolt right up and it should give you about a 1 to 2 inch lift on the front.
On to the rear.....I am going to make a suggestion to you that I didn't do that will save you lots of headaches. You will need to get the factory blocks that go between the axle and the springs to level the back end to the front. But what I didn't do is swap out the springs and spring brackets......bad move...if you ever want to get a suspension lift it makes it complicated. (The 4x4 springs are a little wider than the 2x4 springs in the rear. So that is why you will have to knock off the rivets with a torch or an air hamer....or even grind em if you are brave enough, and put the new ones on with grade 8 bolts....should just bolt right up.)
The transfer case...the hardest part of the conversion. OK...well what I did is that I liked my c-6 that I had and I wanted to still use it. So I pulled the tranny and talked to a local tranny shop about it and he said that he could swap out the output shaft to a shorter one and also put the adapter (transfer case end cone that can be picked up at the dealer.) that the T-case bolts up to on the tranny. OR you can find a tranny/T-case combo too. BUT I would suggest that the shop do it, unless that you have experience rebuilding, because you have to totally disassemble the tranny to swap the output shaft and install the T-case adapter. Have em look at it to make sure that your tranny is in good working order too while you have it out and apart. (IF you don't already..and if you even have a C-6...i would strongly suggest the B&M Street and strip shift kit....really lights it up and its really easy to install)
As for the hole in the floor....you will need to have another 4x4 near by to measure...that is what i did.....go small and if you have to you can widen the hole bigger....measure twice and cut once!!!!!!! You will need to take the seat out and drill 4 holes to start the jig saw. Its really not as hard as it sounds.
The linkage is pretty much straight forward. What else...... what I did and further added that stock look, is that I got the 4x4 light to work in my dash! Ford put the 4x4 dash light filter in there even in the 2x4's, soo all you have to do is get the wire and light socket out of a truck and pull the dash and connect it to a positive and then hook it up to the T-cases terminal. All the switch does it that is grounds out the terminal when you are in 4WD. Its real simple and people will love it!!! Also lets you know exactly how many axles you are using! Makes you look good.
Hum...well, all I guess that is left is to make sure that the t-case and the axle are in good shape. You have 3 main bearings in the spindle of the Dana 44. The outer, the inner wheel bearings and then there is another on the shaft its self by the u-joint.....that is the one that got me in trouble. I blew that one and it started blowing my hubs out. It centers the shaft in the hub and without that working right, it wobbles and goes to making spaghetti out of an $80 pair of Warren premiums! BUT I have to complement Warren in backing up their product because I have a bran spanking new pair they sent me to replace the ones that broke.....Now that is customer service! Also make sure you change the gear oil and other basic things like ball joints, and R & P's. ALSO....almost forgot a biggie! Make sure your axle ratios are the same! If you have, lets say 3.08 (which I have and may make a suggestion.....i would believe with the conversion you will be doing, a nice new set of (at least) 4.10's would be lots better!) gears in the rear.....the front needs to be the same. Or you will really test the strength of your drivetrain.
I might have left out some stuff but you should get the general picture. If you do decide to do the conversion, you will be pleasantly surprised on the performance you will gain. Get a good set of mud tires and you are on your way to driving across those tricky ponds that have been laughing at you!
Sikkert noe som vil si, selg den du har, kjøp deg en med ferdig 4x4.
Men uansett hva Simen sier, og selv om F-150 er USA's mest solgte bil, er dette den eneste av sitt slag i norge.
PÅ verdensbasis sikkert ikke så sjelden, men etter det opplysningskontoret for kjøretøy forteller meg, DEN ENESTE I NORGE
www.ford-project.com
Tom Thorvaldsen
Stolt eier av : 1986 mod. Ford F-150 XLT Lariat
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Uansett ståsted faktisk... Tror nok at de fleste oppegående mennesker ser slikt ganske fort. Selv ville jeg nok for eksempel ikke HANDLET ting fra enkelte av de som har vært å ropt høyest her på tråden. Men nå er det vel kansje bare jeg som er en IDIOT...