Posted 29 September 2004 - 23:00
Her kommer resten av foklaringen på hevesettet, mye arbeid tror jeg.
I prolly haven't explained it proper, so here goes.
remove the lower wishbone and remove/cut off mounting bolts for the plate that sits on the top of it, don't damage the plate, you will find that this plate is ovular in shape? four mounting holes are drilled in this plate to secure to the lower wishbone, two are further apart than the other two? widest mountings at the rear by the shocker.
cut two lengths of 1"x1" box section (needs to be a fairly thickish wall thickness)the same length as the widest part of the plate, where it sits on the wishbone, take one box section and drill the two widest apart holes in it so that the plate will sit 1" above the wishbone, the other box section drill the two narrower mounting holes so that the outer edge of the plate is flush with the end of the box and you should find that it will be too long fo the plate?
now cut both box sections from one corner to the oppposite corner, you should now have two wedges the length of the plate at it widest part and 1" deep at the outside edge and tapering to nothing on the inner edge? the other box cut the same and mount up using longer bolts in the outer holes. cut off the excess wedge on the inboard side of the narrower part? weld to the bottom of the plate so that when mounted the plate should now secure the shocker and spring in their original positions, but the lower wishbone should now be approx 1.5" lower than original. IE: raised suspension. You might want to check brake line positions before you try out offroad?.
The rear I have raised using rubber "coil spring assistors" bought from local Towsure warehouse, I used the smallest ones, which gave a 1.5" lisft on the rear, just insert between top of spring and mounting plate attatched to chassis... A longer rear brake flexi pipe is need, or move mounting plate that secures steel brake pipe to underside of floorpan.
Next remove the front suspension anti sway bar and mounting brackets, cut all rubber bumpstops down by 1" (25mm) and you will find a lot more articulation and enable the fitment of larger tyres.
Happy modding and hope you can understand it all, most will become apparent during the mods.
Don't laff, it might just show you up and not me..
George, pictures of my motor before and after lifting, not very good quality but they do show the extent of lift.
Next thing I shall do is to remove the spare axle from my spare car and reweld/extend all the mounting points by 2" and the fit under my car (spring plates, shocker mountings and four bar links) gives me a 2" lift without the need for longer shocks. should enable the same articulation without the hassles. I shall also fit braided brake lines, two inches longer than standard to improve brakes and stop the flexi pipes from too much damage? also strengthen the two lower rear radius bars at the same time.